http://www.reptileguru.com/default.aspx
Prehistoric Pets Inc. (909) 465-6085
“Maps courtesy of the University of Texas Libraries.

Water Monitors (Varanus salvator)

 

Water Monitors (Varanus salvator)

Water Monitors are the second largest lizard by weight in the world. Adult males can reach nine feet and weigh 150 pounds. While females Water Monitors are much smaller reaching 4-5 feet as adults. Water monitors are widespread and are located throughout South East Asia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. These lizards are excellent swimmers and a large water bowl so they can completely submerge themselves is highly recommended. Water Monitors can be fed crickets, mealworms, night crawlers, rodents, fish, and crawdads. A mixed diet of these food items four to five times per week is ideal and will ensure proper growth and health. Humidity is very important because these lizards come from a very wet environment. We recommend that you mist the cage daily to maintain humidity. Water Monitors should be kept alone unless you are attempting to breed them.Temperature and UV Lighting

Water Monitors should be maintained between 85-90 degrees with a basking spot of 95 degrees. At night the temperature can drop to 75 degrees. Hours of daylight should be 12L/12D during a 24 hour period. Humidity should also be maintained at 70%-100%. UVB lighting is not a must for monitors, but is recommended. UVB lighting enables reptiles to metabolize calcium, by creating Vitamin D3. However, because their diet consists of rodents and other live prey, they can usually receive enough D3 and calcium through their diet. The bones of the prey will provide calcium, while the liver will provide Vitamin D3. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Housing

Baby Water monitors can be kept in a 29 gallon cage but they grow quickly and will soon need larger housing. Adult Water monitors should be kept in a cage that is at least 8’ long by 4’ deep. Females can be kept in smaller enclosures. Extremely large specimens may require room sized enclosures.

Bedding

Our recommendation for bedding is bark or coconut bark, this bedding holds moisture very well and duplicates their natural environment.

Calcium

A calcium and vitamin supplement should be put on all food that does not contain bones. When feeding your monitor mice, rats, or fish, no supplement is needed.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month and fresh clean water should be provided at all times. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Water Monitors can be handled on a daily basis and always wash your hands before and after handling them.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 381 Comments

Category: Water Monitors

Asian Water Dragons (Physignathus cocincinus)

 

Asian Water Dragons (Physignathus cocincinus)

Asian water dragons are semi arboreal lizard, found throughout Indonesia, Vietnam, Southern China, and Thailand. This beautiful and docile lizard is usually found near bodies of water within the rainforests of Southeast Asia. Water dragons are a medium sized lizard that can reach 3 feet in length and males are larger than females. Male water dragons can be distinguished from females by the larger dorsal crests, heads, and jowls. Adult dragons can be successfully bred before they are two years old. After a successful mating females will lay 6-14 eggs inside her nesting hole. The eggs can be incubated at 82-84 degrees and will hatch within 70 days. Water dragons are fairly long lived and with proper care these lizards can live 10-15 years or more.

Temperature and UV Lighting

Water dragons should be maintained at a daytime temperature of 85-90 degrees, with a basking spot reaching up to 95. Night time temperatures should be maintained between 70 -75 degrees. If your home is cooler than these temperatures at night you will need a red or other dark colored heat light. Water dragons come from a humid environment and ideally humidity should be maintained from 70-80%. This level of humidity can be accomplished by misting the cage daily with water. Water dragons require 10-14 hours a day of UVB light. This light enables the lizard to produce vitamin D3. The vitamin D3 produced by UVB metabolizes the calcium in the lizards’ diet. In general it’s what makes water dragons bones hard and without it they usually die. This process of inadequate UVB and calcium is called Metabolic Bone Disease. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Calcium

Water dragons also require a calcium and vitamin supplement. This supplement works with the UVB light allowing the lizard to receive the proper amounts of calcium and vitamins. This should be used every day as babies and reduced to 1-2 times a week as adults. Calcium is sold in a powder form and is sprinkled on the insects that you feed your lizard. You should apply a very light coating to the food items, being careful not to waste any excess powder.

Bedding

Our recommendation for bedding is bark, coconut bark or some other type of mulch. This bedding absorbs water and helps maintain a high relative humidity.

Food and Water

Water dragons should be fed appropriate sized crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and superworms. A mixed diet of these food items, five to seven times per week, is ideal and will ensure proper growth and health. Water dragons are excellent swimmers and a water bowl large enough for them to completely submerse themselves is ideal.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner. We recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Fresh clean water should always be provided. We recommend that you handle your water dragon a few times each day for up to a half an hour. This repeated handling will help your new pet get comfortable with you and its new surroundings. You can handle your water dragon for longer periods of time once it has become more accustomed to you and its new habitat. Always wash your hands before and after handling them.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 351 Comments

Category: Asian Water Dragons

Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus)

 

Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus)

Veiled Chameleons are found in Saudi Arabia and Yemen along the coast of the Red Sea. Their habitat includes costal plains, mountain slopes, and high plateaus. Veiled Chameleons reach adulthood quickly and males are noticeably larger than females. Adult males can reach 15-24 inches in total length, while females range from 10-13 inches. Sexing adults is easy, males have a larger cranial fin and have a large scale or spur on the back foot. Babies can be sexed by looking for this enlarged scale. Adult male Veiled chameleons are territorial and will not tolerate the presence of other males. In general it’s best to keep both sexes separate from each other unless you are attempting to breed them. Once a female is sexually mature she can lay 25-75 eggs 3-4 times each year. Female Veiled chameleons can also store sperm many months after a successful mating and produce viable eggs. After a successful breeding and egg laying, you can expect the eggs to hatch within 190 days.

Temperature and UV Lighting

Veiled Chameleons love heat and require temperatures under the heat light to range from 90-105 degrees and night time temperatures can range from 70-75 degrees. Proper temperature allows Veiled Chameleons to properly digest food and allows the immune system to function normally. Veiled Chameleons require 12-14 hours a day of UVB light. This light enables the chameleon to produce vitamin D3. The vitamin D3 produced by UVB metabolizes the calcium in the lizards’ diet. In general it’s what makes a chameleons’ bones hard and without it they usually die. This process of inadequate UVB and calcium is called Metabolic Bone Disease. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Calcium

Veiled chameleons also require a calcium and vitamin supplement. This supplement works with the UVB light allowing the lizard to receive the proper amounts of calcium and vitamins. This should be used every day as babies and reduced to 1-2 times a week as adults. Calcium is sold in a powder form and is sprinkled on the insects that you feed your chameleon. You should apply a very light coating to the food items, being careful not to waste any excess powder.

Housing

Veiled Chameleons require a cage that has a lot of climbing room and require more ventilation than most reptiles. Baby chameleons can be housed in a 10 gallon terrarium or in a screen cage such as ESUs’ Fresh Air Habitat. Adult Veiled chameleons should be housed in a cage with at least two sides screen and measuring 36” tall and 18” x 18” of floor space.

Food and Water

Veiled chameleons should be fed appropriate sized crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and superworms. A mixed diet of these food items, five to seven times per week, is ideal and will ensure proper growth and health. Chameleons do not usually drink standing water and prefer to drink droplets of water off themselves or vegetation. We recommend that you mist baby Veiled chameleons twice a day and adults can be misted once each day.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Veiled chameleons can be handled on a daily basis and usually tame down quite well. Babies should be handled as little as possible during the first month to allow them to completely adjust to their new surroundings. Always wash your hands before and after handling them.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 366 Comments

Category: Veiled Chameleon

Uromastyx (Uromastyx sp.)

 

Uromastyx (Uromastyx sp.)

There are many different types of uromastyx available as pets. The most popular types are Mali, Egyptian, Moroccan, and Ornate. These lizards are found throughout Northern Africa and parts of the Middle East. The different types of uromastyx vary in size and the largest is the Egyptian uromastyx. Adult Egyptian uromastyx can reach 2-3 feet in length while the other types range between 1-2 feet. The typical uromastyx habitat is dry, hot, and rocky and you need to duplicate this in captivity. Uromastyx lizards can be housed alone or in groups and it’s best to have only one male in the enclosure. When housing uromastyx together make sure the lizard’s cohabitate peacefully. If any lizard looks stressed or is losing weight, separate that lizard from its cage mates. Adult male uromastyx can be sexed by the presence of enlarged femoral pores located on the underside of the back legs. With proper care uromastyx can live 10-15 years or more.Temperature and UV Lighting

Uromastyx love heat and require temperatures to range from 90-100 degrees. They also require a basking spot under the light to range between 110-125 degrees. Make sure that your lizard also has a cool area available that ranges in the low 80’s. Night time temperatures can range from 65-70 degrees. Proper temperature allows the uromastyx to properly digest food and the immune system to function normally. Uromastyx require 10-14 hours a day of UVB light. This light enables the lizard to produce vitamin D3. The vitamin D produced by UVB metabolizes the calcium in the lizards’ diet. In general it’s what makes their bones hard and without it they usually die. This process of inadequate UVB and calcium is called Metabolic Bone Disease. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Calcium

Uromastyx also require a calcium and vitamin supplement. This supplement works with the UVB light allowing the lizard to receive the proper amounts of calcium and vitamins. This should be used every day as babies and reduced to 1-2 times a week as adults. Calcium is sold in a powder form and is sprinkled on the insects and vegetables that you feed your uromastyx. You should apply a very light coating to the food items, being careful not to waste any excess powder.

Bedding

Different beddings have positives and negatives when used for reptiles. The best type of bedding for uromastyx would be some type of fine sand. Certain types of sand can cause impactions in the intestine and kill baby uromastyx. We feel that these types of impactions are rare and we have never personally encountered this problem.

Food & Water

Uromastyx are usually herbivores and their diet should consist of green leafy vegetables and occasionally insects. The following vegetables should make up 80 percent of their diet: Collard greens, mustard greens, red leaf lettuce, green leaf lettuce, romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, hibiscus leaves and flowers, green onions, spinach, green beans, zucchini, and frozen mixed vegetables. Fruits should make up 10% of their diet. Examples of ideal fruits are: Apple, bananas, strawberries, figs, peaches, mango, papaya, cantaloupe, grapes, blackberries, and blueberries. The remaining 10% should be different feeder insects such as crickets, superworms, mealworms and waxworms. Uromastyx do not typically drink a lot of water. Most of their water intake comes from eating crickets and vegetables. Water should be given twice a week as babies by soaking the lizard in a shallow dish of water for about 5 minutes. The bearded should be able to stand in the water without having to swim. If soaking is inconvenient for you, a water dish inside the cage will work fine.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner. We recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Fresh clean water should always be provided. Uromastyx can be handled on a daily basis and usually tame down quite well. Always wash your hands before and after handling them.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 390 Comments

Category: Uromastyx

Tokay Geckos (Gekko gecko)

 

Tokay Geckos (Gekko gecko)

Tokay geckos are medium sized geckos found throughout Southeast Asia. They are active at night and can be found climbing on almost any surface. These geckos can vocalize and received their common name from the sounds that they make. They typically vocalize when they are threatened or to protect their territory from rival geckos. Tokay geckos do not have any eyelids and they keep their eyes clean by licking them throughout the day. Adults can reach 10-14 inches in total length and males are larger than females. Tokay geckos are sexually mature within two years. Male geckos are aggressive towards other males and it is best to keep one male with several females. To sex your adult gecko examine the base of the tail, males will have a noticeable bulge. Healthy female geckos will produce 1-2 eggs each month and will continue to reproduce for several months a year. Female tokay geckos can also store sperm and can lay viable eggs without a male being present. When properly incubated, tokay gecko eggs hatch within 100 days. Tokay geckos can drop their tails and they are able to regenerate a new tail. Tokay geckos are nocturnal and to fully enjoy them we recommend a red light for viewing at night. Red lights do not disturb nocturnal reptiles, just make sure to follow the temperature guidelines below.

Temperature and UV Lighting

Tokay geckos require temperatures under the heat light to range from 84-90 degrees and night time temperatures can range from 68-75 degrees. Proper temperature enables tokay geckos to properly digest food and allows the immune system to function normally. Tokay geckos are nocturnal species and UVB lights are not usually necessary for proper health. However, it is possible that wild geckos are active in the early morning and evening and are exposed to some UVB light from the sun. Our recommendation is to use UVB lights especially if live plants are used to decorate the cage. The UV light needs to be on 12 hours during the day and off at night. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you. Tokay geckos do best with humidity maintained between 60-80 percent and daily misting will accomplish this.

Calcium

Tokay geckos also require a calcium and vitamin supplement. This supplement works with the UVB light allowing the lizard to receive the proper amounts of calcium and vitamins. This should be used every day as babies and reduced to 1-2 times a week as adults. Calcium is sold in a powder form and is sprinkled on the insects that you feed your gecko. You should apply a very light coating to the food items, being careful not to waste any excess powder.

Housing

Tokay geckos require a cage that has a lot of climbing room. Vertical cages are an excellent choice and you should provide multiple hiding spots. Cages can also be set up with live plants for a naturalistic appearance.

Food and Water

Tokay geckos should be fed appropriate sized crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and superworms. A mixed diet of these food items, 4-6 times per week, is ideal and will ensure proper growth and health. Provide a water bowl at all times and mist the cage daily. Most day geckos will drink the droplets of water off the cage walls and vegetation.Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Tokay geckos are usually nervous captives and are extremely fast. It’s best to handle them as little as possible and remember their tails break off.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 377 Comments

Category: Tokay Geckos

Savannah Monitors (Varanus exanthematicus )

 

Savannah Monitors (Varanus exanthematicus )

Savannah monitors are found in the grasslands of central Africa. They are a shy animal but typically adjust well in captivity. These lizards are a terrestrial species and prefer multiple hiding places. Baby savannah monitors grow quickly and adults can reach 3-4 feet in total length. With proper care Savannah monitors can live 10-20 years in captivity. In the wild Savannah monitors are inactive during the harshest times of the year. They remain inactive and store fat reserves until the raining season when food is abundant. Breeding season begins with the start of the rains and up to 40 eggs can be laid. The eggs hatch when the rains begin the following year.

Temperature and UV Lighting

Savannah monitors should be maintained between 85-90 degrees with a basking spot of 100 degrees. At night the temperature can drop to 75 degrees. Hours of daylight should be 12L/12D during a 24 hour period. Humidity should also be maintained at 60-80%. UVB lighting is not a must for monitors, but is recommended. UVB lighting enables reptiles to metabolize calcium, by creating Vitamin D3. However, because their diet consists of rodents and other live prey, they can usually receive enough D3 and calcium through their diet. The bones of the prey will provide calcium, while the liver will provide Vitamin D3. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Housing

Baby Savannah monitors can be kept in a 29 gallon cage but they grow quickly and will soon need larger housing. Adult Savannah monitors should be kept in a cage that is at least 6’ long by 4’ deep.

Bedding

Our recommendation for bedding is bark or some type of mulch. This type of substrate holds moisture very well, allowing a higher humidity. Even though they are from Africa, they are not a desert species. Cages that are too dry can cause dehydration and shedding problems. We also recommend that you mist the bedding several times a week to increase humidity.

Calcium

A calcium and vitamin supplement should be put on all food that does not contain bones. When feeding your monitor mice or rats, no supplement is needed.

Food

Adult Savannah monitors are known to eat too much and become obese. Ideally their diet should consist of insects such as superworms, mealworms, crickets, and waxworms. Other types of suitable foods include lean turkey, eggs, snails, and earthworms. Rats and mice should be used occasionally and should never make up the majority of their diet. A mixed diet of these food items, four to five times per week, is ideal and will ensure proper growth and health.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month and fresh clean water should be provided at all times. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Savannah monitors can be handled on a daily basis and usually tame down quite well. Always wash your hands before and after handling them.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | No Comments

Category: Savannah Monitors

Rough-Neck Monitors (Varanus rudicollis )

 

Rough-Neck Monitors (Varanus rudicollis )

Rough-neck monitors are found in Borneo, Sumatra, southern Thailand, and Malaysia. They inhabit tropical rainforests and are more active during the rainy season. Wild rough-neck monitors will typically feed on insects, frogs, lizards, and any small animal they can overpower. They are a medium sized monitor and adults reach 3-4 feet in total length. These lizards are semi arboreal and usually hunt for food on the ground and use the trees when frightened. Male and female rough-necks look alike and sexing is very difficult. Captive breeding has been sporadic and females lay 1-3 clutches year with 6-14 eggs in each clutch. The eggs will hatch within 185 days when incubated at 84-86 degrees. With proper care rough-neck monitors can live 10-15 years in captivity. Like most monitors, rough-necks are nervous captives and may take some time to tame down. Ideally, the cage should include multiple hiding spots to provide a sense of security. Prehistoric Pets promotes responsible reptile ownership and we recommend locking cages that prevent accidental escape. Large monitors and other escaped reptiles can have a negative impact on the general public which can lead to a ban of reptile ownership.

Temperature and UV Lighting

Rough-neck monitors should be maintained between 85-90 degrees with a basking spot of 95 degrees. At night the temperature can drop to 75 degrees. Hours of daylight should be 12L/12D during a 24 hour period. Humidity should also be maintained at 70%-90%. UVB lighting is not a must for monitors, but is recommended. UVB lighting enables reptiles to metabolize calcium, by creating Vitamin D3. However, because their diet consists of rodents and other live prey, they can usually receive enough D3 and calcium through their diet. The bones of the prey will provide calcium, while the liver will provide Vitamin D3. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Housing

Baby rough-neck monitors can be kept in a 29 gallon cage but they grow quickly and will soon need larger housing. Adult rough-neck monitors should be kept in a cage that is at least 6’ x 2’ x 4’.

Bedding

Our recommendation for bedding is bark or coconut bark, this bedding holds moisture very well and duplicates their natural environment.

Food

Rough-neck monitors are opportunistic hunters and are known to eat almost anything. Ideal foods are; mice, rats, fish, crawdads, crickets, superworms, nightcrawlers, beef heart, and hard boiled eggs. A mixed diet of these food items, four to five times per week, will ensure proper growth and health.

Calcium

A calcium and vitamin supplement should be put on all food that does not contain bones. When feeding your monitor mice, rats, or fish, no supplement is needed.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month and fresh clean water should be provided at all times. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Rough-neck monitors can be handled on a daily basis and always wash your hands before and after handling them.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 2 Comments

Category: Rough-Neck Monitors

Rhinoceros Iguanas (Cyclura cornuta)

 

Rhinoceros Iguanas (Cyclura cornuta)

Rhinoceros iguanas are found on a few islands in the Caribbean. The iguanas that belong to this genus are among the most endangered lizards in the world. Male iguanas can reach an adult size of four feet and weigh over 20 pounds. Iguanas are difficult to sex as babies but mature males can be distinguished by their larger heads and jowls. The easiest way to sex adult Iguanas is the presence of enlarged femoral pores. These pores are located on the underside of the back legs, male iguanas’ pores are noticeably larger. Male iguanas are aggressive towards each other and should be housed separately. Rhinoceros iguanas are very long lived and one can expect their pet to live 20-40 years if properly cared for. Prehistoric Pets promotes responsible reptile ownership and we recommend locking cages that prevent accidental escape. Large iguanas and other escaped reptiles can have a negative impact on the general public which can lead to a ban of reptile ownership.Temperature and UV Lighting

Rhinoceros iguanas should be maintained at a daytime temperature of 85-90 degrees, with a basking spot reaching up to 95 degrees. Night time temperatures should be maintained between 70 -75 degrees. If your home is cooler than these temperatures at night you will need a red or other dark heat light to be used at night. Iguanas come from a fairly humid environment and ideally you should mist the cage a few times a week. Rhinoceros iguanas require 10-14 hours of UVB light a day. This light enables the iguana to produce vitamin D3. The vitamin D produced by UVB metabolizes the calcium in the lizards’ diet. In general it’s what makes iguanas’ bones hard and without it they usually die. This process of inadequate UVB and calcium is called Metabolic Bone Disease. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Calcium

Rhinoceros iguanas also require a calcium and vitamin supplement. This supplement works with the UVB light allowing the lizard to receive the proper amounts of calcium and vitamins. This should be used every day as babies and reduced to 1-2 times a week as adults. Calcium is sold in a powder form and is sprinkled on the vegetables that you feed your Iguana. You should apply a very light coating to the food items, being careful not to waste any excess powder.

Bedding

Our recommendation for bedding is bark or coconut bark. This bedding absorbs water and helps maintain a higher relative humidity.

Food and Water

Rhinoceros iguanas are herbivores and their diet should consist of green leafy vegetables. The following vegetables should make up 80 percent of an iguana’s diet: Collard greens, mustard greens, red leaf lettuce, green leaf lettuce, romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, hibiscus leaves and flowers, green onions, spinach, green beans, zucchini, and frozen mixed vegetables. Fruits should make up the remaining 20% of an iguanas diet. Examples of ideal fruits are: Apples, bananas, strawberries, figs, peaches, mango, papaya, cantaloupe, grapes, blackberries, and blueberries. Iguanas also can be fed dry pellet foods as a supplement to the diet stated above. Fresh clean water should be available at all times.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner. We recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. We recommend that you handle your iguana a few times each day for up to a half an hour. This repeated handling will help your new pet get comfortable with you and its new surroundings. You can handle your iguana for longer periods of time once it has become more accustomed to you and its new habitat. Remember, never pick up your iguana by the tail, it can break off.

http://www.reptileguru.com/default.aspx
Prehistoric Pets Inc. (909) 465-6085
“Maps courtesy of the University of Texas Libraries.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 357 Comments

Category: Rhinoceros Iguanas

Red Tegu (Tupinambis rufescens)

 

Red Tegu (Tupinambis rufescens)

Red Tegus are found throughout western Argentina and parts of Uruguay. These lizards can reach four feet in total length. Male Tegus are larger than females and have much larger heads and jowls. Young male Tegus can be sexed by the presence of two enlarged scales at the base of the tail. At three years old Tegus become sexually mature but usually need to hibernate to reproduce successfully. Females can lay up to 25 eggs and with proper incubation they will hatch within 92 days. If you’re not going to breed your Tegus it is best to keep them separately. With proper care you can expect your Tegu to live 15 years or more.Temperature and UV Lighting

Red Tegus should be maintained between 85-90 degrees with a basking spot of 100 degrees. At night the temperature can drop to 70 degrees. Hours of daylight should be 12L/12D during a 24 hour period. Humidity should also be maintained at 60-80%. If you’re planning to hibernate your Tegu, temperatures need to remain between 45-60 degrees. These lizards can handle brief exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees but it’s not recommended. Tegus require 12-14 hours of UVB light for proper health and growth. This light enables the Tegu to produce vitamin D3. The vitamin D3 produced by UVB metabolizes the calcium in the lizards’ diet. In general it’s what makes a Tegus’ bones hard and without it they can die. This process of inadequate UVB and calcium is called Metabolic Bone Disease. Also it is very important to change your UVB light every 6-8 months, after this time the light stops producing adequate UVB. If you’re not sure if your UV light is still producing UVB, bring it in and we’ll be happy to test the light for you.

Housing

Baby Red Tegus can be kept in a 29 gallon cage but they grow quickly and will soon need larger housing. Adult Tegus should be kept in a cage that is at least 6’ long by 4’ deep. Females can be kept in smaller enclosures.

Bedding

Our recommendation for bedding is bark or some type of mulch. This type of substrate holds moisture very well, allowing a higher humidity. Cages that are too dry can cause dehydration and shedding problems. When your lizard is shedding we recommend that you mist the cage with water once a day to increase humidity. Dry shed is the result of low humidity and dry skin can cause the loss of toes if it is not removed. The bedding should be deep enough to allow your Tegu to dig and bury itself.

Calcium

Tegus also require a calcium and vitamin supplement. This supplement works with the UVB light allowing the lizard to receive the proper amounts of calcium and vitamins. This should be used every day as babies and reduced to 1-2 times a week as adults. Calcium is sold in a powder form and is sprinkled on the crickets, fruits, and vegetables that you feed your Tegu. If you’re feeding your Tegu rodents no supplementation is needed. You should apply a very light coating to the food items, being careful not to waste any excess powder.

Food

Red Tegus are omnivorous feeding on mice, rats, fish, snails, hard-boiled eggs, crickets, super worms, night crawlers, beef heart, fruits and vegetables. A mixed diet of these food items, four to five times per week, is ideal and will ensure proper growth and health.

Cleaning and Handling

The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any fecal matter or left over food should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month and fresh clean water should be provided at all times. The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat. Tegus can be handled on a daily basis and usually tame down quite well. Never pick your Tegu up by the tail, unlike monitor lizards, Tegus can loose their tail. Broken tails do regenerate but will never look as good as the original. Always wash your hands before and after handling them.

 

Posted by devin at Wednesday ~ February 02, 2007 | 406 Comments

Category: Red Tegu